<< Park Lane/Doomsville < The Strand | Fifth Avenue > Winking Crack >>
A great route, that is well worth a look if The Strand and Park Lane/Doomsville are occupied. The route gains the wide crack in the upper right-hand section of the buttress. Start in a small niche to the left of the narrow path.
1) 5a, 30m. Climb up the slabby wall on the left that leads to the base of a shallow groove. Climb this to a ledge on the left, and move up right to reach a left-trending line. Follow this and then head up the steep groove that leads to a wall. Climb the wall to a peg below an overhanging niche. Exciting moves right below the niche lead to a belay in the base of the wide crack.
2) 5a, 30m. Climb the crack with a few interesting moves near the top, to a ledge in a niche. Belay here or scramble up and right to reach easy ground taking care not to dislodge loose rock onto your second.
FA. P.Crew, D.Alcock (some aid) 14.5.1966