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Very sustained and pumpy, although the pump may be due to the number of runners you have placed! Start just left of the deep Bloody Chimney, below a slabby corner.
1) 4c, 23m. Climb the slabby corner to a foot ledge some 8m up. Head up a crack for a few more metres until you can move out left. Continue up to where the slab narrows and then move back right to belay in the corner below the impressive crack.
2) 6a, 43m. Follow the crack, trending left then up to a pod. Continue past a poor peg, taking care with a loose flake, then step right to gain the continuation crack which leads to the top.
FA. D.Knighton, J.Girdly (2pts) 27.10.1978