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A good route, which is relatively straightforward for the grade - although it is steep, and a little bit of a pump-fest. Start below the lower end of twin diagonal cracks that streak across the cliff and round an arete.
1) 6a, 38m. Make some hard moves to gain the twin cracks, and follow them leftwards. A brief respite halfway leads to more sustained climbing. The crux comes at the end of the twin cracks just before they move up into the slabby groove. Many parties abseil off from here. Alternatively, head up the groove to belay on the top of the large flake.
2) 4c, 15m. Finish up Bloody Chimney P3.
FA. R.Edwards, E.Fry (5pts) 24.5.1966. FFA. P.Gomersall, S.Foster 1976