The Quartz Icicle
<< Wen < The Concrete Dream | Zeus > A Dream of White Horses >>
Another great route, that takes the quartz band that looks like a lightning bolt frozen in geology. Start by abseiling to the belay on the first pitch of Wen, or climb Wen to this point.
1) 5b, 40m. Move left to join the start of the quartz streak. Follow this, passing a few tricky moves, to where the streak turns into a crack, and follow this to broken easier ground and a small groove 6m right of the Dream... belay. You can move left to belay as for Dream... if you plan to finish up that.
2) 5b, 28m. Head up the small chimney/groove and pass through Dream... and move up and right into the top of a small leftward-trending groove. Continue on in the same direction to a longer groove line right of a smooth slab. Just below the top, move right to gain an exit crack leading to the final ledge of Wen.
FA. E.Drummond, B.Campbell-Kelly 9.11.1968 and 31.8.1969