Wen

2 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Britomartis < T Rex  |  The Concrete Dream > The Quartz Icicle >>


The crack that runs the full height of the crag shows the line of this route. The top is very loose and can be dangerous for all parties below you, were you to knock stuff off. If the tide is in or the sea is rough, start from the top of the first pitch reached by an exciting diagonal abseil.
1) 5a, 30m. Climb the chimney, and thread yourself through the hole with as much dignity as possible. Then follow the thin groove above to reach good ledges, and belay just to the left of the main crack-line.
2) 4c, 40m. Move over to the crack and follow it up to a hanging stance where the crack is widest, level with where a corner-crack leads leftwards out of the main crack.
3) 5a, 35m. Move over the bulge and gain the corner-crack on the left, climb this with extreme care. An awkward move gains the start of a long ledge, which is followed left to a belay on the wall just below the top. Scramble easily up and left to the hillside above.
FA. J.Brown, M.Boysen 8.5.1966

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