Lighthouse Arete

2 Stars
 VS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Red Wall < Fantasia  |  Lighthouse Arete Direct > Blanco >>


A great route that winds its way up the left arete of the crag. It is mild at the grade but quite adventurous. Abseil to a triangular niche that is over to the left (looking in) as you descend.
1) 4a, 20m. From the niche, traverse out left across easy terrain to a square-cut groove, with a small ledge at its top. Climb up to the break and traverse left to the arete, before moving up to a good stance.
2) 4b, 22m. Head directly up behind the belay and gain the slab, follow this to the roof (optional belay below roof), and make committing moves to enter the corner. Climb this, and the wall on the left, to a ledge and belay.
3) 4a, 35m. Climb up the groove behind the belay, then head up and right to a ledge on the arete. Move right and continue to another ledge (optional belay). Make one awkward move through a step and then keep trending right to reach the abseil station.
FA. A.G.Cram, M.Yates 8.10.1966

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