GumshoeRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 44
Adjacent Routes
14m. Excellent climbing up the middle of the face, being steep and stretchy although with plenty of buckets to swing about on. The finish feels a bit bolder and a long way off the ground. USER COMMENTS
Large for grit. I wouldn't like to peel off the top on the lead.
Good fun, gear placements getting a bit crumbly. Not quite 3 stars.
aq 1 move wonder route but really good.the top is big holds.
Very worthwhile despite the crumbly rock and brevity of the crux....which happens to be an awesome technical move. Finish is nice though. Reasonably protected with a diverse rack, although best to be careful and climb it sooner rather than later.
I don't get it... Why does everyone complain about the protection on this route? I thought it was like climbing on bolts!
Because the rock is poor in the slot by the crux. I think it would be rather hard to not notice that.
Um, use a bigger cam? Yes the front of the slot's only 2cm thick rock, but the gap behind it is still good enough to hold a large cam... Say 3.5?
Visited last night and the crux protection is looking extremely worn - no nut protection now available in the slot, and the expansion of the crumbly cam placement makes it dubious.
Backed off this April 2010 as gear slots at the ledge are now sandy holes - very sad to see. Big enough cam might still make it safe but will obviously increase the damage.
Did this on the 13th April. A Large cam (Camelot 4) goes nicely in the pocket and can be backed up by another large can just below (my Friend 4 was a little small for the placement), though the quality of the rock is poor in the pocket I am sure that it will still hold a few falls BUT this is not a route to throw yourself at and fall off repeatedly as it will destroy the protection - one to be left for when you are proficient at the grade and it hopefully will remain a classic at the grade for a number of years. |