Schittlegruber

3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
 E6 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Mantrap < Cannibal  |  Left-hand Red Wall > Heart of Gold >>


A fine route with a serious first pitch and strenuous top one. Start 8m up left from Left-hand Red Wall, at a vegetated groove.
1) 5c, 28m. Climb the groove to join Left-hand Red Wall at the small roof. Move immediately left to a hollow-sounding flake. Climb this, and the wall above, until level with the Left-hand Red Wall belay before traversing right to it.
2) 6b, 28m. Go diagonally up left to an overlap. Arrange some gear (micro cam useful) and make steep technical moves on good rock to a ledge on the left, below a huge groove. Ascend the enjoyable groove more easily, to a swing right at its end. Finish up the airy wall.
FA. P.Pritchard, N.Harms 16.8.1986

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