Left-hand Red Wall

2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
Loose
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Cannibal < Schittlegruber  |  Heart of Gold > Pagan >>


Rather harder and much scarier than its name-sake on Red Wall. The first pitch is horrific - soft, loose and difficult to protect. Whereas the top pitch is harder (both physically and geologically) but easier to protect. Start down the grassy rake, just above a line of overlaps.
1) 5c, 30m. Start up the groove, and shuffle up to a roof. Waddle right onto a steep slab and head up and across this to another shallow groove. A committing finale leads to the ledge and belay.
2) 5c, 35m. To the right is a flake/crack, move out and then up it to a small ledge. Traverse right past a peg into a shallow niche and gain the diagonal crack above. Follow this crack up and right until it is possible to finish directly up to the top.
FA. J.Brown, P.Crew (2pts) 11.6.1967. FFA. H.Barber 1976

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