Anarchist

1 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Pagan < Deygo/Infidel Direct  |  Television Route > Wendigo >>


Slight, but worth doing for the situation. Start from the promontory, at the base of the abseil, where the promontory abuts the crag at a large blunt spike.
1) 5b, 37m. Make a frightening traverse left off the spike to a groove that leads up to a tiny ledge. Climb the left arete of the groove above to another ledge. Shuffle left and head up and left to a detached flake passing a peg. The top of the flake is gained by a semi-mantle move, the peg just above the flake is obvious from the promontory. Climb a line of weakness up and right to a small overlap and step right into a niche below a steep crack. Follow the crack above to a good ledge. Belay further back on a grassy ramp.
2) 4c, 20m. Climb up the grassy ramp to the shoulder and a junction with Deygo. Move up a slab rightwards to gain a groove and finish up this.
FA. B.Wintringham, J.Moran 8.8.1978

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