<< Heart of Gold < Pagan | Anarchist > Television Route >>
A great route, with a very committing first pitch. It follows the main diagonal feature across the wall, and is an enticing line. Start by abseiling down the ramp-line about 80m from the top, until level with a sandy trough, about 25m above the sea.
1) 5b, 20m. Traverse right across soft rock, with little in the way of gear, past a poor peg, to gain the dusty chimney. Climb this, exiting steeply right to a poor belay on a small ledge (poor bolt stub, poor pegs, poor spike and poor cam 4 ).
2) 5c, 23m. Step right into the chimney, dodging the bulge on the left, before picking up a broken diagonal crack. Follow this up and right in a fine position to a square-cut ledge. Step right and climb the groove to easier ground and a small stance on the left.
3) 5c, 23m. Commit to gaining the peg 3m above the belay. Follow the continuation of the diagonal crack up and right past more pegs, until you reach a large ramp-line and belay.
4) 4b, 15m. The slab above leads much more easily to the top.
FA. (Deygo) T.Proctor, G.Birtles (5pts) 4.1968
FFA. R.Fawcett, J.Hesletine 1973
FA. (Infidel Direct) J.Moran, P.Willaims 5.5.1978