| E4 5c|
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A man-eater of a pitch that is bold and committing. The gear is rather amusing, but if you fall, the joke will very much be on you. Start at a flat ledge near the top of the grassy rake line, about 40m below the top. From just above an overlap, traverse right above the gaping abyss, peg, to reach the base of a vague tottering groove. Move up this, exiting leftwards onto better rock, and another peg (try not to snigger). Continue up the sustained but never-desperate wall to reach a deep break, and bury a bunch of cams here and finally feel safe. Move left and head up on some great bubbly rock to reach the blind left-facing groove which is followed to the top.
FA. J.Moran, A.Evans, P.Williams, B.Wintringham 6.8.1978