| E4 5c|
<< Left-hand Red Wall < Heart of Gold | Deygo/Infidel Direct > Anarchist >>
Another classic line that has notoriously tricky route finding. Start as for Deygo.
1) 5b, 20m. Traverse right across soft rock, with little in the way of gear, past a poor peg, to gain the dusty chimney. Climb this, exiting steeply right to a poor belay on a small ledge. This is Deygo P1.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb straight up from the belay on dodgy rock to a vague break-line. Traverse left to below a tricky wall, with an even vaguer groove. Follow the groove up and slightly right, before heading straight up to gain a ramp-line leading up right to a ledge at the base of a large flake. Belay at the base of this flake.
3) 5c, 42m. Wade up the flake in a great position to its end at a break. Follow the break left to a small niche, then move up this trending rightwards into a deep slot - passing this is the crux. Follow the easiest line to a groove that leads to the top.
FA. P.Littlejohn, A.Houghton 1973