| E4 5c|
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A tough proposition even with the easier and safer start. The extremely bold original start is up the line of weakness 3m right and has the terrifying grade of E5 5c. An exciting 50m diagonal abseil gains a belay; a reasonable spike on a ledge below the main line of weakness. Start by moving up the wall from a sloping ledge by a couple of suspect spikes, there may or may not be a peg, which is passed on the left. Move up and right into a sandy area below an overlap and then traverse right into the main groove system. Head up the groove passing much decaying ironmongery left by the first ascent - filmed and broadcast live by the BBC in 1966. At about 25m the grooves split, take the right-hand groove past a couple of overlaps. Step out right to a small ledge and then climb the wall to enter an upper vertical groove, finish up this to the top.
FA. J.Brown I.MacNaught-Davies 1966
FFA. J.Moran, B Wintringham, P.Williams 8.1978