<< First Slip < Daddy Cool/The Sting | Merlin Direct > Merlin >>
Start below the groove/chimney as for Daddy Cool.
1) 4a, 25m. Move up the left side of the groove and then step right across its top to the base of the vegetated slab. Climb this to belay at its top as for Merlin Direct.
2) 4a, 18m. Traverse left across the top of the slab to the corner. Move out to a crack and climb this with care to a tree belay below two grooves.
3) 4a, 21m. The right-hand groove is tricky. Finish up and left.
FA. A.Moulam, D.Thomas 8.3.1952