Daddy Cool/The Sting

2 Stars
Technical
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Leg Slip < First Slip  |  Reinetta > Merlin Direct >>


The vegetated bay has a couple of decent routes. The first tackles the open groove/chimney at the bottom of a long slab that leads down from the Merlin headwall.
1) 4a, 12m. Climb the left side of the groove to reach a ramp. Go up here to a tree belay in a groove.
2) 5c, 18m. Move onto the ramp and up to a pedestal just left of a groove heading up the steep wall. Move up and left to climb the crack rightwards to a Damoclean overlap (you'll know what this is when you get there). Pull over right into a groove and climb this to a ledge belay on the edge of the buttress.
3) 5a, 15m. Move up and right to a crack, and then traverse a line of weakness across the wall to gain the main corner.
4) 5c, 12m. Climb the left-hand corner with difficulty.
FA. (Daddy Cool) D.Roberts, P.Williams, R.Edwards 15.1.1978
FA. (The Sting) R.Edwards, P.Williams 5.1.1978

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