Flaky Wall

 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Delicatessen < Tales of Yankee Power  |  Bastille > Shaky Gully >>

The flaky right side of the block leads to a swing left to reach its top. Finish easily. Unprotected where it matters.


This one left me baffled! Dodgy gear behind the loose flake, and then ???
Nick Smith - 16/May/02

Agree with Nick's comments. No worthwhile gear and a crux at about half height above a less than perfect landing suggest that this one might be closer to E1.
Stuart Stronach - 24/Jun/02

I agree too. Dodgy wobbly flake holding an alien and a nut and a potential ground fall from the less than obvious crux. Best avoided.
Mark Grist - 19/Aug/02

ended up moving left a bit above dodgy flake, protected by a skyhook as i didnt want to put gear behind the flake and risk it coming off with the gear. stupid route and not worth looking at considering what else there is at stanage.
stephen hall - 29/Sep/03

I backed off this not trusting the flake (which moves quite dramatically) either to move off or to take gear. Agree with someone's comments that this is a stupid route ie. unpredictable and potentially dangerous. Not worth attempting unless you are a gambler.
JonC - 07/Nov/03

An excellent solo at E2 5b if you don't trust the flake for gear; the crux is a bit reachy but the holds are ok
andyclifford - 22/Sep/05

Definintely as hard as Tales of Yankee Power - soloed both of them and would swap the grades around.
Tom - 06/Jun/06

Soloed this, tales of yankee power and bastille. All felt equally hard. Forget about gear, the flake moves too much and will never hold a fall.
All good routes to solo.
Mick B - 19/Oct/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 17
    hard E2 0 of 3
    E2 0 of 3
    easy E2 0 of 3
    hard E1 0 of 3
    E1 3 of 3
    easy E1 0 of 3
    hard HVS 0 of 3
    HVS 0 of 3
    easy HVS 0 of 3
    hard 5c 0 of 7
    5c 0 of 7
    easy 5c 1 of 7
    hard 5b 0 of 7
    5b 5 of 7
    easy 5b 1 of 7
    hard 5a 0 of 7
    5a 0 of 7
    easy 5a 0 of 7
    3 Stars 0 of 7
    2 Stars 0 of 7
    1 Star 4 of 7
    0 Stars 3 of 7
    Bag of ..... 0 of 7

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