<< Creagh Dhu Wall < The Wasp | Tarantula/Tantalus > Mensor >>
A stunning top pitch makes this route what it is. Sustained with a hard pull through the final roof on the second pitch. Start at the foot of a slab below a large roof.
1) 4b, 28m. Climb up the slab just to the right of the tree that dominates the central grove. Near the top, traverse right under the roof to gain a ledge above and right.
2) 6a, 25m. Move down to a traverse line above the lip of the roof. Follow this until you can step up to the next roof and scuttle sideways to below a prominent groove. Move up the groove to a small niche and move up and right (possible peg?) to the final roof. A stiff pull through this is rewarded by a very large jug and a great degree of relief. Follow the groove above to the ledge and belay.
3) 4b, 10m. Move up and left from the belay on rock with amazing friction, then trend up and left to the top.
FA. J.Brown, C,Davies 3.1964