Tarantula/Tantalus

2 Stars
Pumpy
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< The Wasp < Tensor  |  Mensor > None >>


A route that takes the best two pitches from these routes and combines them into one stunning E1. The first pitch is technical and balancy and the final pitch is totally out there. Start down and right of Tensor, at a rib that is the toe of the central slab.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the rib to a good ledge and arrange gear in the overhang. A technical sequence over this leads to delicate climbing up the slab above. Trend right to gain the airy arete. Belay on the ledge as for Tensor. An easier alternative is to follow Tensor P1 which is VS.
2) 5b, 30m. A stunning pitch. Climb up and right from the belay to a groove. Ascend this, and the rib, until level with the wall on the left. Step left to clip a peg - wires back this up - before making a committing pull out left to gain a jug on the arete. Move up the arete briefly, then make a delicate and airy traverse left to a ledge and belay.
3) 4b, 10m. As for P3 of Tensor.
FA. (Tarantula) D.Yates, I.Lowe, F.Crawfors 14.5.1966
FA. (Tantalus) H.Banner, J.Neill 3.7.1955

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