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A different kind of route for Tremadog with a slightly adventurous feel. Start below a recess at the far right-hand end of the buttress reached by the vegetated path below the crag.
1) 4b, 35m. Climb up to a right-facing corner. Follow this over a steep bulge on good holds to some ledges. Continue to a tree-filled gully above (possible belay). Climb the gully to a big tree a little below a traverse line out right.
2) 4b, 15m. Climb up then make a delicate traverse out right to the arete which is climbed to the top. Direct up the corner is Hogmanay Direct, HVS but there is some loose rock.
Abseil off but take great care not to get your ropes stuck in the trees.
FA. P.Gomersall, E. Masson, J.Moran 5.6.1977