Monkey Puzzle/Pincushion

2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Strapiombo < Poor Man's Peuterey  |  Pincushion > Silly Arete >>


A fantastic route and the easiest way up this iconic slab. Start beneath the big corner of Barbarian, below a tree.
1) 4b, 20m Scramble up to the tree and move up and left towards the arete. Step left into a crack and follow this to where you can move left to the tree belay below the wide crack of Pincushion.
2) 4b, 10m. Climb the diagonal flake/ramp on the left to belay on a tree in the groove below an overhang.
3) 5b, 40m. Move up the groove to the overhang, take the right-hand groove and make a tricky pull onto the Pincushion slab. Move up and right to gain a hanging corner and move up this, arranging a high runner above a thin break-line. Step back down and foot traverse the break-line on blind holds to reach the upper crack of Pincushion. Finish up this.

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