Never, Never Land

3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
 E7 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Electric Savage < Ramshaw Crack  |  Green Corner > Zigzag Route >>


12m. The north-facing wall is arduous and bold. From the top of the crack leap out right to a crappy, creaking flake. Stuff some gear behind this if you want but it has been tested and it doesn't hold! When prepared, climb the centre of the wall direct to a finish guaranteed to focus the mind somewhat!
FA. Simon Nadin 1986

USER COMMENTS

E7 in several peoples opinions, including myself

Scarey!
Adam Lincoln - 08/Feb/02

That would be nice, but I thought standard grit E6. Mind, I don't think it's been onsighted yet, though Pete Robins may know. Mantleshelf at top foccusses the mind wonderfully.
Jon Read - 11/Feb/02

Thought it felt E6, until I came to abseil and remove my gear. The small wires in the flake pulled out downwards! Nice climbing, if a little overpracticed these days, the top is getting worn.
Andi Turner - 12/Feb/02

A mate jumped off, pumped, after the dyno and stripped everything in the flake! He just missed my head. So be undfer no illusions that the flake takes any decent gear. The top mantle is only 6a if you do it the easy way, though it may be hard to figure this out on-sight.
Jon Read - 12/Feb/02

i have no r.ps so chose to solo it,i think its worth E7 for sure,i thought i was going to get blown off the balancy mantle at the top.
mark s - 14/May/02

I have upgraded this to E7 in the new guide. I'll leave the comments and votes as they are though.
Alan James, ROCKFAX - 04/Dec/02

On-sighted it. Thinks it's E6. Met Seb Grieve (for 1st time about 2 days later) he also reckoned standard E6. But can always argue about grades. Must be true though "how do I onsight E7?" A: "Do an E6 and wait for the upgrade"
Jon - what dyno? tricky slappy move but didn't do a dyno anywhere. Mainly because I can't dyno. Maybe I just got lucky with figuring out the top mantel (VERY) quickly
freefly - 14/Jun/05

There's no way that's E7.
simes303 - 01/Feb/14

In fact, Master's Edge, a middle of the road E7 is far, far harder. NNL should be given easyish E6 and no more.
simes303 - 05/Feb/14

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 21
    hard E8 0 of 5
    E8 0 of 5
    easy E8 0 of 5
    hard E7 0 of 5
    E7 2 of 5
    easy E7 1 of 5
    hard E6 1 of 5
    E6 1 of 5
    easy E6 0 of 5
    hard 6c 0 of 11
    6c 0 of 11
    easy 6c 0 of 11
    hard 6b 1 of 11
    6b 10 of 11
    easy 6b 0 of 11
    hard 6a 0 of 11
    6a 0 of 11
    easy 6a 0 of 11
    3 Stars 5 of 5
    2 Stars 0 of 5
    1 Star 0 of 5
    0 Stars 0 of 5
    Bag of ..... 0 of 5

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