Flaky Wall Direct

2 Stars
 VS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Darkness < Flake Gully  |  Flaky Wall Indirect > Cracked Gully >>

14m. Take the right-hand edge of the south-facing side-wall on jugs to a rest then pull left past a rock tooth (which will come off one day - get your belayer to stand aside) into the final steep groove on solid finger jams. Photo page 91.


I'd question the starring of this route; found it quite scrappy recently, with lots of loose bits and bobs - the whole "tooth" is loose, and a belayer-killer waiting to happen. Might be worth noting that it is somewhat involved setting a safe belay at the top, and that getting off is either very exposed, or requiring some inspired ropework.
Stefan Kruger - 24/Apr/02

A nice respite from the usual Ramshaw torment, MVS 4b½ would seem most appropriate. Only "that flake" and the surrounding rock detracts from the fine combination of a steep start and a committing finish. Agree that getting off it is mildly Alpine for a grit crag =).
Fiend - 09/Feb/04

A great candidate for MVS! A thuggy start and a commiting move up into the final positive crack. It will be less commiting when the tooth is finally "pulled". Take some cams for the belay and a simultaneous ab will get you back down to the ground safely and elegantly.
Duncan Irving - 19/Apr/06

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