Fern Groove

2 Stars
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
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Climb the right-hand edge of the slab then reach the hanging groove by a traverse from the right. Enter it by a puzzling layback sequence then bung in some gear and sprint to safety. The hardest of the old Stanage Extremes!
FA. Pat Fearneough early 1960s


A couple of lovely moves. Very well protected, not sustained, cannot be more than E1, or it it easier for the tall?
MIke Raine - 27/Jul/03

The crux starting move from the break is manicly reachy. Im 5'9" and could only reach the lower part of the layback hold (which i subsequently let go of when i fell off).
Neville Contractor - 29/Jul/03

Good route, great gear, if you can jam you'll find it E1
Jim W - 26/May/04

Steady and considerably more amenable that one might think. A couple of tricky moves and loads of good gear. Short but fun.
Fiend - 17/Feb/08

Not sure what you guys are on about. The hardest E2, with the hardest 5c crux, I've ever done. Took me a couple of goes, and rest of the groove is still quite pressing.
Jon Stewart - 21/Jun/09

Bit of a fiddle getting the wire in after the crux. Another quality little route, sums up gritstone climbing for me.
mark20 - 19/Nov/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 69
    hard E3 0 of 24
    E3 0 of 24
    easy E3 6 of 24
    hard E2 5 of 24
    E2 9 of 24
    easy E2 1 of 24
    hard E1 3 of 24
    E1 0 of 24
    easy E1 0 of 24
    hard 6a 0 of 24
    6a 0 of 24
    easy 6a 3 of 24
    hard 5c 9 of 24
    5c 11 of 24
    easy 5c 1 of 24
    hard 5b 0 of 24
    5b 0 of 24
    easy 5b 0 of 24
    3 Stars 1 of 21
    2 Stars 17 of 21
    1 Star 3 of 21
    0 Stars 0 of 21
    Bag of ..... 0 of 21

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