Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 101
22m. A devious classic. The frequently frustrating initial slab can be ascended in several places at 5a/b. From the ledge, climb through the bulge just to the right of the arete, to another ledge. Step down (low runners) and traverse across the slab to reach its right arete. Follow the right side of this to the top. Poorly protected although at least the upper section is steady.
the bottom bit is probably 4c if you're over 6ft
Nice route, boulder problem start but the technicality then eases. No gear from the start of the traverse so fairly bold. Picking the line of the traverse (hi or lo) wasn't that easy. Solid VS.
There is gear on the traverse - a reasonable cam placement half way along, and you could probably put one in the pocket at the end as well, although I didn't have the right size with me.
Slightly dodgy friend 2 2/3rds of the way along the traverse. Brilliant route though, just trust those feet!
I seconded this and really enjoyed it. Especially the start, most satisfying if you don't use the arete for hands. Wish I'd led it to appreciate the exposure when you start the traverse and the boldness.
"Follow the right side of [the right arete] to the top". Really? I couldn't find enough holds on the right (at least not enough to be 4b), so went up the left instead, ie the right hand side of the slab.
A victim of its own poularity with the start, but once passed the rest is good steady stuff, no where harder than 4b. The traverse focuses things nicely, but do you realy need to worry about the gear when the moves are that easy?
Found it a most enjoyable route with adequate gear, although you need cams. The initial slab is easy 5a IMO and the rest is easy if you trust your feet.
I think giving this 5a is an over grading. The 4c move is straight off the deck,above is easy 4b climbing with slightly spaced gear.Very pleasant,enjoyable climbing.