Long Climb Top 50

3 Stars
 S 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< Priscilla Ridge < Priscilla  |  Leaf Buttress > Leaf Crack >>


30m. Climb the slumped slabby buttress on polished holds (a gripper in the wet) trending right to a good stance. Climb the slippery scoop then follow a series of corners to a grand finale up the exposed crack on the right.

USER COMMENTS

The book says pitch 1 is 4a, pitch 2 ungraded. I'd say pitch 1 is 3c, pitch 2 is 4a. And the book gives a total route length of 25m - it's more like 35 if you do it in one pitch (after setting uip the belay we had 3m of a 50m rope left).
Simon Caldwell - 07/Jul/03

Top route for the grade, would agree with previous comments pitch 1 polished VDiff, pitch 2 is a worthy 4a. Would think its a bit safer to do it as 2 pitch's though
Shaun Walby - 03/Aug/03

I think pitch 1 is only 3c, despite the polish, pitch 2 4a
Iain Thow - 19/Mar/07

I agree with the 2009 guidebook, pitch 1 3c 15m, pitch 2 4a 20m. Start of pitch 2 is tricky but has excellent gear (in fact good gear throughout if you have enough quickdraws). Would strongly recommend do it as 2 pitches. Top route.
Dave G - 11/Apr/10

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  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 47
    hard HS 0 of 16
    HS 0 of 16
    easy HS 1 of 16
    hard S 0 of 16
    S 10 of 16
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    hard 4b 0 of 15
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    4a 9 of 15
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    hard 3c 1 of 15
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    3 Stars 11 of 16
    2 Stars 5 of 16
    1 Star 0 of 16
    0 Stars 0 of 16
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