Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 47
30m. Climb the slumped slabby buttress on polished holds (a gripper in the wet) trending right to a good stance. Climb the slippery scoop then follow a series of corners to a grand finale up the exposed crack on the right.
The book says pitch 1 is 4a, pitch 2 ungraded. I'd say pitch 1 is 3c, pitch 2 is 4a. And the book gives a total route length of 25m - it's more like 35 if you do it in one pitch (after setting uip the belay we had 3m of a 50m rope left).
Top route for the grade, would agree with previous comments pitch 1 polished VDiff, pitch 2 is a worthy 4a. Would think its a bit safer to do it as 2 pitch's though
I think pitch 1 is only 3c, despite the polish, pitch 2 4a
I agree with the 2009 guidebook, pitch 1 3c 15m, pitch 2 4a 20m. Start of pitch 2 is tricky but has excellent gear (in fact good gear throughout if you have enough quickdraws). Would strongly recommend do it as 2 pitches. Top route.