Wall End Slab Direct

2 Stars
Fluttery
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Bridge's Variation < Wall End Slab Super Duper Direct  |  Wall End Slab Direct Finish > Pure White and Deadly >>


14m. A great effort for its day. Climb the lower slab right of centre to a break and runners. Step right and balance up the slab, using an undercut flake to make a right-facing mantelshelf a worrying distance above the gear. Continue to the next break and escape out right to the easy upper arete.
FA. Frank Elliott 1930

USER COMMENTS

Very nice run out and balancy. camtastic!
mark s davies - 10/May/03

Yes it's all very nice but really it's not more than E1 and 5a. I think your voters need to get around a bit more! And three stars! Worth one star, it's a one move wonder.
MIke Raine - 27/Jul/03

If this was graded E1 5a, I'd have a crack at it and get the shock of my life.
jon stewart - 05/Sep/03

Backed off this (was leading f7a+ day before) so can't imagine it's E1. Will return when feeling suitably pysched.
Mark Stevenson - 08/Aug/04

The combination of the two routes in the database is a shame, making the comments confusing. Great Route though(the E2 that is).
nige - 04/Oct/04

Well, in reply to Mike Raine:
That move at the top (the no hands rockover)
is definately 5B/C and at that point the only gear (one cam) is way below you, so i would call that E2/3 (Harder than "three steps to heaven"!!!!!)
The Pylon King - 04/Oct/04

This is fair for E3 - not high in the grade but most slabs earn their E points mostly from boldness with a smattering of technicality thrown in. Fair enough the rest of it is somewhat straightforward but the top rockover is tricky 5c and the bold elephant's arse topout is definitely gripping!!
Ed - 20/Dec/04

No harder than E2 5c really but the top bit is pleasant!!
Mr Brikby - 31/Dec/04

Nice route, maybe a bit contrived at the top. I thought the crux in the top scoop was 5b, and found the awkward moves round the bulge at half-height harder and just as bold. Having a long reach probably helps for the top move though.
gav p - 18/Dec/05

It's not as bold as you think!!! There are good tricams in the pocket on the traverse and the one above to protect the scoop!
dave - 11/May/06

Why is there this beta in the route description? Surely people should be able to figure out how to do it by themselves. I didn't do it that way anyway!
Luke - 17/Feb/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 19
    hard E3 0 of 1
    E3 0 of 1
    easy E3 1 of 1
    hard E2 0 of 1
    E2 0 of 1
    easy E2 0 of 1
    hard E1 0 of 1
    E1 0 of 1
    easy E1 0 of 1
    hard 5c 0 of 1
    5c 0 of 1
    easy 5c 1 of 1
    hard 5b 0 of 1
    5b 0 of 1
    easy 5b 0 of 1
    hard 5a 0 of 1
    5a 0 of 1
    easy 5a 0 of 1
    3 Stars 11 of 17
    2 Stars 4 of 17
    1 Star 2 of 17
    0 Stars 0 of 17
    Bag of ..... 0 of 17

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