Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 19
18m. Climb the left wall of the cave to a good spike then swing left to round the arete and climb to ledges. Continue up the corner to the roof and step left and pull over it rapidly to access the easier head wall.
I can't wait to see a topo with the actual line for the 2nd pitch! (The BMC Kinder guide isn't clear and OPR is even worse) I traversed out left on good holds and poor heel-hooks to strenuous pulls over the lip of the obvious roof. At least 5b, possibly 5c moves. Great route though - the first pitch probably is E1 5a or perhaps easy 5b.
Standard E1 5b and jolly good fun. Both overhangs involve entertaining acrobatics but are not nearly as heinous as they look. Despite multi-pitching being fairly tedious, this is perhaps best enjoyed as two pitches with a very comfy perch in between.
Rockfax line at the top seems ridiculous. You have to go up above it then drop back down on to it when the sensible line is staring you in the face. It would involve traversing the lower break with your feet heel hooking higher than your hands (the break gets slightly loer as it goes round). I dont believe for a minute that Ivar Berg soloed that! On Peak Rock identifies the E1 as simply an alternative start to eitherthe HVS or VS. Im pretty sure On Pek Rock is right! Having said all that, the start (worth E1 5b on its own easily) and the finish (the HVS way) are both very good, althoguh the middle is scrappy.
I would agree with Si dH, the line in the topo appears low on the upper section, obvious traverse line is at mid height and can be protected with a high runner in the upper break. Do it in 2 pitches and enjoy the view!