Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 51
The widening upper crack is reached via a short action-packed jamming crack. The upper part is tricky to protect. The original left-hand start is a bit easier though gear is wanting. The face just right gives a smart f6A boulder problem start.
Try the non direct severe which starts just to the left in the obvious large crack, really very good.
protection is good with small friends in the upper section
Protection is fine in horizontal breaks though you have to grovel about inside the crack to find it. For the Severe leader the old "Wall End Crack" route starting up the Coign on the left is more consistent in grade.
Good jams at the bottom. Had an awful grovel up the wide crack which my 2nd annoyingly avoided by finding some holds I missed, damn.