Niche Arete

2 Stars
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< The Flywalk < The Niche  |  Orm and Cheep > Studio >>

12m. Climb the delicate arete with stretchy moves. Protection at the level of the niche is below the crux! Serious for the short.


Visited Castle Naze for the first time and used the Kinder guide. This route was graded MVS 4b. I checked in "On Peak Rock" when I got home and it was graded HVS 5B. Here's it's graded VS 5A !! I thought about 4b was OK.
Richard B - 13/May/02

I climbed here recently for the first time and used the Kinder Guide - the route was graded MVS 4b. I checked "On Peak Rock" when I got home and it was graded HVS 5b. Here it's graded VS 5a !! Doh! I thought 4b was OK if you could make the reach.
Richard B - 13/May/02

Yeah, VS 4b is about right, not that well protected, but not that hard, I don't know where OPR got HVS 5b from!
MattG - 23/Jun/03

I think it depends how direct you climb the arete. If you use the crack around to the left its a lot easier. I thought VS 5a was about right.
Roberto - 23/Jun/03

Roberto is right. I thought my mate was having an off day, until he told me not to use the crack.
ander - 13/Aug/03

If you can make the reach on the bottom section and haul yourself up on to the ledge it's alright afterwards! ;) Probably worth VS 5a for ths short, not as difficult if your 6ft+
Richard Hession - 13/Jan/05

I thought the start 5a if you dont use the crack
Iain Thow - 19/Mar/07

The way I climbed it I was happy with VS 4b (that's what i thought it was when i set off on solo). Didn't feel like I went off line, but the routes are so closely packed here, who knows.
Jon Stewart - 28/Aug/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 54
    hard HVS 0 of 18
    HVS 0 of 18
    easy HVS 0 of 18
    hard VS 4 of 18
    VS 11 of 18
    easy VS 3 of 18
    hard HS 0 of 18
    HS 0 of 18
    easy HS 0 of 18
    hard 5b 0 of 17
    5b 0 of 17
    easy 5b 0 of 17
    hard 5a 0 of 17
    5a 12 of 17
    easy 5a 2 of 17
    hard 4c 3 of 17
    4c 0 of 17
    easy 4c 0 of 17
    3 Stars 1 of 19
    2 Stars 5 of 19
    1 Star 13 of 19
    0 Stars 0 of 19
    Bag of ..... 0 of 19

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