Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 73
Climb the corner-crack of Wall End Crack Direct then take the sloping ramp to the foot of twin flakes. Climb the left-hand of these by laybacking and jamming. Big gear needed.
Stopping to place gear is a b*gger, so make sure you have something good in before you commit to the layback.
If placing gear is a problem, then try jamming it! Anyway, too close to the next route right to achieve true independence. Demerit by one star.
I thought this was a great route. Very gritstone. It doesn't get any stars at all in the old BMC guide so I was pleasantly surprised. The middle section of the top flake is definitely fairly tricky.
People with short legs may find passing the holly distinctly prickly in delicate places.
Great route, nice variation on the three 'sections'. The layback was brilliant - there's a couple of nice ledges on the right, so if you want to place gear you can just pull in from the layback and stick in a jam, stand on a ledge and whack in a cam, and turn it into a layback again, ace. I found the last metre the trickiest as I'd blocked the handhold at the top of the flake with a hex, managed to use an arm bar and almost get in the off-width to escape, really thought I was coming off!
I thought the layback looked quite tough (in terospect probably because I couldnt feel my fingers in the cold) so jammed all the way up. Qutie baggy handjams/fistjams in places so it was a bit awkward and at the bottom of the upper crack it was imporssible to avoid the other crack, but stll a good route.
Excelent route! Did the first crack on solid handjams, thought I was a gonna until I discovered the essential hand hold at the top of it. The flake crack is great, bridged half-way up to bang in a big cam and laybacked all way up. Very sustained. Definatly my best yet!
Really enjoyed this route has all the gritstone ingredients of hand jams, laybacks, armlocks and even a knee bar. Fab.