Scoop Face Top 50

3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Keep Arete < Scoop Direct  |  Scoop Face Direct > Scoop Wall >>


12m. The classic of the crag. Using glassy slopers reach a good hold (5b for the short) and attain a standing position precariously. Pad across the scoop and go up a thin crack to a pocket (big nut) and a tricky (crucial if you are pumped?) finish on the left. Barefoot ascents have long been traditional though the modern alternative of sticky rubber is a much better idea! For those who can't manage the start, the scoop can be accessed from Keep Arete at VS 4c.
FA. Stanley Jeffcoat 1914

USER COMMENTS

As per the description. A delicate route which I soled in 1957.
Dennis Morrod - 09/Feb/02

The severe in the grade stands for Severely Polished.
Mike - 26/Mar/02

The crux is the polished 5a start although the 4b mantle at 4m worries nervous climbers. Everyone except me seems to have voted for HVS but I cant see it as the finish is easy 4c climbing with spaced runners (including one in a break about 6 inches below the top)
Steve C - 07/Oct/02

What a great climb. A great mix of reachy crimps which are about as polished as anything I have ever seen to the poorly protected delicate scoop above which makes for the HVS I'll warrant.
I'm not sure about the 'big nut' bit of protection either. Either I missed the gear or this 'big nut' is unlike I have ever seen before!
Huw D. Jones - 08/Jul/03

It's more of a big Hex than a nut...
Jon Read - 08/Jul/03

Bare feet compulsory. No bare feet, no tick!!
Fiend - 22/Aug/03

My old Camp Interalp Exentric No. 8 does the job in the hole...goes in sideways and then turned to the vertical and jammed into the hole entrance.
CPH - 30/Sep/03

The crucial pocket gear is tricky to place - I got nothing worthhile in which definitely justified the flutter symbol for the top section!
Andy Higginson - 25/Nov/03

A sideways 2.5 Friend can be used passively if you forgot any hexes...ahem!
Tobs - 25/Nov/03

Only just worth HVS in my opinion. Good fun though and the top half was better than expected. Sideways medium hex in the big hole/pocket is pretty sound and not difficlt to place!
RobD - 25/May/04

I couldn't find anything near the top so fluttered my way over the top! Brilliant!
Paul Winder - 03/Jul/04

Gripping - much more than expected. Did the 4c start and it still shattered my nerves. The gear was hit and miss, only saw the high friend placement late, but it made all the difference in making that steep move over the top. A good route, but feels serious.
Rampikino - 14/Apr/05

got a perfect friend 3 in the hole yesterday...best friend you'll ever place
nick v - 25/Apr/05

Yep friend 3 absolutely bomber in the hole although tricky to squeeze in, and out!
I didnt get anything else in after that although I could if I'd looked more carefully, the top-out definitely made it feel like HVS, very bold.
Si dH - 09/May/05

Rockcentric 9 into the hole and twist bomber. Saves your second spending 10 minutes attempting to get the cam out (ahem Si). If you use high step ups this root will seem much easier.
alex g - 09/May/05

Led this on what I thought was my first HVS lead, only to find later that I had done the Vs 4c start. As long as your not drunk balencing in the scoop shouldn't cause problems. I to experiance a worrying lack of gear at the top! Will definatly go back and do it properly.
Jonathan Miles - 26/Jun/05

Don't worry about the polish - this is gritstone after all.
I didn't have the right hex so I used a friend instead. I think it fell out while I was on the exit.
This definately deserves the HVS as it's very poorly protected.
Not recommended for a HVS novice.
Excellent climb and worth the stars.
Albie Niedojadlo - 01/Aug/06

Easy for the grade, but a distinct lack of gear, you need a hex for the pocket, I put i friend in it which wriggled out. My first HVS though, not much harder than nozag
Andrew Bramall - 19/Sep/06

Lovely route, definately worth three stars, and you need to have your head in-gear as there isn't much protection.

What I would have liked for the large pocket on the right was a large tri-cam. Unfortunately without this you have to move up and over left to where you can get some gear in at the bottom of the crack that you finish up.
nshephard - 02/Jun/08

i am the true Donny Jawes!!! i will crush you small me!!
Dohnny Jawes - 02/Jun/08

My first HVS onsight solo and a perfect route for it with a low crux and just nice exposed (and escapable) climbing.
Jon Leighton - 16/Jun/08

Well there's plenty of beta on here already I'll add mine - sideways no. 6 hex in the pocket (would maybe have taken a bigger one but that one seemed to tug in okay and I couldn't be arsed to replace it, having already given up on a cam), and a .4 camalot just right of it. No .3 camalot at the bottom of the upper crack in the great sidepull. .75 camalot right at the top. Think that was it.
Nice moves.
cider nut - 11/Sep/08

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 162
    hard E1 0 of 46
    E1 0 of 46
    easy E1 0 of 46
    hard HVS 0 of 46
    HVS 22 of 46
    easy HVS 21 of 46
    hard VS 3 of 46
    VS 0 of 46
    easy VS 0 of 46
    hard 5b 0 of 70
    5b 0 of 70
    easy 5b 1 of 70
    hard 5a 3 of 70
    5a 59 of 70
    easy 5a 7 of 70
    hard 4c 0 of 70
    4c 0 of 70
    easy 4c 0 of 70
    3 Stars 34 of 46
    2 Stars 12 of 46
    1 Star 0 of 46
    0 Stars 0 of 46
    Bag of ..... 0 of 46

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.