Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 165
12m. The classic of the crag. Using glassy slopers reach a good hold (5b for the short) and attain a standing position precariously. Pad across the scoop and go up a thin crack to a pocket (big nut) and a tricky (crucial if you are pumped?) finish on the left. Barefoot ascents have long been traditional though the modern alternative of sticky rubber is a much better idea! For those who can't manage the start, the scoop can be accessed from Keep Arete at VS 4c.
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As per the description. A delicate route which I soled in 1957.
The severe in the grade stands for Severely Polished.
The crux is the polished 5a start although the 4b mantle at 4m worries nervous climbers. Everyone except me seems to have voted for HVS but I cant see it as the finish is easy 4c climbing with spaced runners (including one in a break about 6 inches below the top)
What a great climb. A great mix of reachy crimps which are about as polished as anything I have ever seen to the poorly protected delicate scoop above which makes for the HVS I'll warrant.
It's more of a big Hex than a nut...
Bare feet compulsory. No bare feet, no tick!!
My old Camp Interalp Exentric No. 8 does the job in the hole...goes in sideways and then turned to the vertical and jammed into the hole entrance.
The crucial pocket gear is tricky to place - I got nothing worthhile in which definitely justified the flutter symbol for the top section!
A sideways 2.5 Friend can be used passively if you forgot any hexes...ahem!
Only just worth HVS in my opinion. Good fun though and the top half was better than expected. Sideways medium hex in the big hole/pocket is pretty sound and not difficlt to place!
I couldn't find anything near the top so fluttered my way over the top! Brilliant!
Gripping - much more than expected. Did the 4c start and it still shattered my nerves. The gear was hit and miss, only saw the high friend placement late, but it made all the difference in making that steep move over the top. A good route, but feels serious.
got a perfect friend 3 in the hole yesterday...best friend you'll ever place
Yep friend 3 absolutely bomber in the hole although tricky to squeeze in, and out!
Rockcentric 9 into the hole and twist bomber. Saves your second spending 10 minutes attempting to get the cam out (ahem Si). If you use high step ups this root will seem much easier.
Led this on what I thought was my first HVS lead, only to find later that I had done the Vs 4c start. As long as your not drunk balencing in the scoop shouldn't cause problems. I to experiance a worrying lack of gear at the top! Will definatly go back and do it properly.
Don't worry about the polish - this is gritstone after all.
Easy for the grade, but a distinct lack of gear, you need a hex for the pocket, I put i friend in it which wriggled out. My first HVS though, not much harder than nozag
Lovely route, definately worth three stars, and you need to have your head in-gear as there isn't much protection.
i am the true Donny Jawes!!! i will crush you small me!!
My first HVS onsight solo and a perfect route for it with a low crux and just nice exposed (and escapable) climbing.
Well there's plenty of beta on here already I'll add mine - sideways no. 6 hex in the pocket (would maybe have taken a bigger one but that one seemed to tug in okay and I couldn't be arsed to replace it, having already given up on a cam), and a .4 camalot just right of it. No .3 camalot at the bottom of the upper crack in the great sidepull. .75 camalot right at the top. Think that was it.