Nozag

3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Birthday Climb < The Crack  |  Zigzag Crack > Zig-a-Zag-a >>


14m. Follow the right-hand crack to the arete of the buttress until it starts to slant away right. Pull onto the face and follow a thin crack directly and with some difficulty in the upper part (big Friend). Superb climbing with a perfectly-positioned crux and high in the grade.

USER COMMENTS

A fantastic long climb which increases in difficulty and exposure right to the last move.
Steve C - 07/Oct/02

Great climb, bold, delicate moves all the way to the top.
anthonini - 13/Jun/03

I wouldn't call the moves bold, there is perfect protection all the way. An excellent route.
Dave Finch - 08/Jul/03

Great climb. Don't agree it's "high in the grade" as guide book now says. Well protected all the way with barely 4c moves.
Crammy - 22/Sep/03

I agree - great climb. Constant, but not too difficult 4b/c climbing that gets better the further up you go. Rivals any VS on grit for quality. (Except The File perhaps...)
Whealiebob - 24/Oct/03

best climb here.
take some very large gear for the first crack.
moves steep but with good holds.i dont agree with it being high in the grade,steady vs climbing.
ANDREW MACKINOSH - 09/Jan/04

i agree, top quality route. interesting throughout. gear's fine.
Leon Skeldon - 05/Jun/04

Don't need any large gear. Get a bomber nut at the start of the thin crack then jus go, the quality of the nut placements near the top isn't worth the effort of placing them. Proper VS, tricky moves all the way once you leave the wide crack and at least a couple that I felt were solid 4c. Lovely route.
Si dH - 09/May/05

Superb VS climbing...might not be technically top end 4c for any one move, but it gets harder as you climb with the crux balance move right at the top (well protected big & small cams).
Its where you are when this one challenges you that made it feel solid upper end VS4c for me.
Shaun Walby - 19/Jun/05

A great climb with increasing interest all the way up. The small cam in the top break is much better than the rubbish large one!
Marrow of Wrath - 22/Apr/06

Yes, best route here, a bit of everything, just enjoy the delicate top without faffing about for the not very good pro.
Iain Thow - 19/Mar/07

A good climb but If you liked this go and try Scoop face using the Keep Arete start, also VS 4c but much better than this route.
David Hewitt - 28/Oct/07

Probably the best route at the crag, but would only get one star elsewhere. Low in the grade IMO.
Jon Stewart - 28/Aug/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 124
    hard HVS 0 of 46
    HVS 0 of 46
    easy HVS 0 of 46
    hard VS 10 of 46
    VS 30 of 46
    easy VS 6 of 46
    hard HS 0 of 46
    HS 0 of 46
    easy HS 0 of 46
    hard 5a 0 of 46
    5a 0 of 46
    easy 5a 0 of 46
    hard 4c 2 of 46
    4c 39 of 46
    easy 4c 4 of 46
    hard 4b 1 of 46
    4b 0 of 46
    easy 4b 0 of 46
    3 Stars 25 of 32
    2 Stars 7 of 32
    1 Star 0 of 32
    0 Stars 0 of 32
    Bag of ..... 0 of 32

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