Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 61
A totally committing layback up the left side of the superb arete. Side-runners should be avoided at all costs. From the starting block, take a deep breath, and sprint for the midway break. Thankfully things are easier above.
What a beautiful line! A fine route of at least 4 stars.
A true gritstone experience! Whatever you do don't stop.
Totally agree! Don't stop, just keep motoring on up there until your stood on the first gear ledge. Look back down and be amazed at what you've just down. Perfect!
what gear goes in archangel before i do it this week?
By the time you get to the gear it's all over, so don't worry about it! Amazing route **********
I'm going to stick my neck out and say I think this is E4. I have tried this a few times over the last 20 years but it wasn't till today that I got to the point that carrying on was safer than reversing. Cathartic. Approaching perfection.
Simon, thats because you're now old and sensible, steady E3 when you're young and stupid!
Climbed it 30 years ago; too fat, old, soft, responsible (?) now
Wonderful. A bit of psychological beta for those looking at this before an ascent: look down over your left shoulder after a few moves. Then don't look down again.
Fantastic route, definitely need a bit of conviction but the moves aren't too bad.