North Buttress Arete DirectRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 55
Adjacent Routes 10m. A great route though with a bold start. Pull onto the arete and climb its bulging left-hand side throughout. Not well-protected in its lower section. USER COMMENTS
Probably the hardest of the VS routes at Windgather, with sustained and poorly protected climbing in its lower half. Perhaps even a soft HVS?
Top route, recomendable, though I don't think as unprotectable as all that, I've you've got the right cams. There's the pocket at the bottom that took (from memory) a nice Camalot 3.
A superb route in a great location, rather exposed, the rockfax route is hardly direct though, if done direct protection is sparce.
Found it ok if you stick to the arete - although didn't find much protection. The dotted line in the guidebook seems to suggest you start left of the arete which I found terrifying for a VS!
Worryingly poorly protected at the start, I didn't trust the cam in the pocket, but a step right allows a runner to be placed on the right of the arete. Once I'd summoned up the courage to go for it, I found the whole thing much easier than expected, while I'd love it if this were HVS I think it's no more than VS 4c.
A wicked solo, Pretty scary but easily escapable if you have a look. Actually found it harder to lead cos I was hanging around for too long looking for gear placements. Best climb at Windgather.
That bottom pocket took a hex 8 really well. Top route, but not too hard for VS. Great climbing pretty much all the way.
The runner in the bottom pocket just gets in the way & is too low to protect the hard bit, just apply a bit of oomph, the jugs do turn up after the reach, honest
This is the best route on the cliff! |