North Buttress Arete Direct

2 Stars
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Green Crack < North Buttress Arete  |  North Buttress Arete Indirect > Chimney and Crack >>


10m. A great route though with a bold start. Pull onto the arete and climb its bulging left-hand side throughout. Not well-protected in its lower section.

USER COMMENTS

Probably the hardest of the VS routes at Windgather, with sustained and poorly protected climbing in its lower half. Perhaps even a soft HVS?
Nick Smith - 02/Aug/03

Top route, recomendable, though I don't think as unprotectable as all that, I've you've got the right cams. There's the pocket at the bottom that took (from memory) a nice Camalot 3.
Ander - 18/Aug/03

A superb route in a great location, rather exposed, the rockfax route is hardly direct though, if done direct protection is sparce.
Simon A - 02/Mar/04

Found it ok if you stick to the arete - although didn't find much protection. The dotted line in the guidebook seems to suggest you start left of the arete which I found terrifying for a VS!
Reds - 07/Jun/04

Worryingly poorly protected at the start, I didn't trust the cam in the pocket, but a step right allows a runner to be placed on the right of the arete. Once I'd summoned up the courage to go for it, I found the whole thing much easier than expected, while I'd love it if this were HVS I think it's no more than VS 4c.
Simon Caldwell - 12/Jul/04

A wicked solo, Pretty scary but easily escapable if you have a look. Actually found it harder to lead cos I was hanging around for too long looking for gear placements. Best climb at Windgather.
CJ - 22/Jul/05

That bottom pocket took a hex 8 really well. Top route, but not too hard for VS. Great climbing pretty much all the way.
richard lackey - 17/Oct/05

The runner in the bottom pocket just gets in the way & is too low to protect the hard bit, just apply a bit of oomph, the jugs do turn up after the reach, honest
Iain Thow - 19/Mar/07

This is the best route on the cliff!
Matt1000 - 22/Apr/07

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 55
    hard HVS 0 of 21
    HVS 0 of 21
    easy HVS 0 of 21
    hard VS 8 of 21
    VS 11 of 21
    easy VS 2 of 21
    hard HS 0 of 21
    HS 0 of 21
    easy HS 0 of 21
    hard 5b 0 of 14
    5b 0 of 14
    easy 5b 0 of 14
    hard 5a 0 of 14
    5a 0 of 14
    easy 5a 9 of 14
    hard 4c 5 of 14
    4c 0 of 14
    easy 4c 0 of 14
    3 Stars 4 of 20
    2 Stars 15 of 20
    1 Star 1 of 20
    0 Stars 0 of 20
    Bag of ..... 0 of 20

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.