Portfolio

1 Stars
Technical
Strong
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Small Wall < The Corner  |  Wall Climb > Centre Route >>


8m. Still one of the hardest routes on the cliff, rumoured to be a Joe Brown offering. Climb to the bulges and pull fiercely through these (well-protected) onto the short headwall.

USER COMMENTS

Interesting. A friend and were 'working' (no top rope)Portfolio when a guy who had been sat watching us came through and soloed it - 1956. I therefore (though I do not think so) made the second ascent. That is, if a FA is being claimed for - 1984... Easy start, wicked finish.
Dennis Morrod - 09/Feb/02

An very good route, safe as houses with friends in the break.

The route would probably be E1 on Burbage.
Steve Marsden - 17/May/02

I'ts a one move wonder, and it is dibatable whether the move is 5b. I guess it depends on how strong you are.
Luke Hunt - 19/Feb/03

starting slab begining to polish up. Still excellent placements in crack and vertical crack of left hand tooth. Strong moves to finish. Nice climb.
David Nolan - 21/Feb/03

A good route, but polished footholds and a hard finish don't make it an ideal solo. Indeed at least one person has died soloing the route...
Nick Smith - 02/Aug/03

Found it surprisingly straightforward - protection is right there for the crux. No way is it E1.
Reds - 07/Jun/04

One move wonder and its all about matching your hands on the upper hold (makes it easy). I messed it up but once I figured it out it was easy.
Rich Cooke - 09/Sep/04

There's a definate sequence to get above the bulge, however, the gear is excellent and there's loads of it too.
Swirly - 23/Oct/05

Found this realy easy, one move wonder and even thats 5a at the most, sauls cracks the same grade and thats a lot harddr
wig - 28/Oct/06

As a Western Grit local, this has long been on my list and it didnít disappoint. Unfortunately, if the top wall ever gets as polished as the slab it will be ruined. Please donít put top ropes down it, save it as a worthwhile Western test piece for another 60 years at least.
Paul Johnson - 29/Sep/08

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  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 128
    hard E1 0 of 44
    E1 0 of 44
    easy E1 1 of 44
    hard HVS 0 of 44
    HVS 28 of 44
    easy HVS 12 of 44
    hard VS 3 of 44
    VS 0 of 44
    easy VS 0 of 44
    hard 5c 0 of 43
    5c 0 of 43
    easy 5c 0 of 43
    hard 5b 0 of 43
    5b 11 of 43
    easy 5b 26 of 43
    hard 5a 6 of 43
    5a 0 of 43
    easy 5a 0 of 43
    3 Stars 1 of 41
    2 Stars 15 of 41
    1 Star 23 of 41
    0 Stars 2 of 41
    Bag of ..... 0 of 41

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