South Buttress Arete Direct

 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Route 1.5 < Editor's Note  |  Route 1 > South Buttress Crack >>

10m. From the recess pull right onto the steep arete and sprint smartly up this. The grade is for lanky gymnasts who can actually reach the holds and manage the initial moves!


Only a couple of hard 5b moves, but very intimidating - check out that 'tombstone' landing!
Nick Smith - 02/Aug/03

a gnarly greaser - scared myself on solo - dont hang around for the photo dudes
bogytea - 23/Jul/04

Awesome route - no heel-hooks for the first overhang, just campus it... Took me 4 attempts to figure the sequence and collect the balls to go for it, but, in the end, a super route, and a wonderful (quite easy) upper section.
Pythonist - 13/Aug/04

WOOOOOOO! what a route. Still buzzing from the solo. Not really E1 even with the top section, but 5b's fair. WOOOOO!
Andrew Emery - 08/Oct/04

Routes great just need a full set of cams, protect the start then lean out and campus it!
alex g - 06/Mar/05

Although i cant climb it myself, i've seen it done solo by a 75 year old. Very impressive.
Jonathan Miles - 26/Jun/05

No heel-hooks??? OK, I tell you what, no hands, try that one...
CJ - 22/Jul/05

A bit rubbish really and NEVER E1, rightly gets no stars as the top section is poor
Scouse D - 22/Jul/05

good fun, no point leading, solo is the way. campus manouver of ass-kickery
wig - 26/Nov/06

What's all this about campus moves? Is climbing it like an adult cheating?
Jon Stewart - 28/Aug/09

Exactly. What's all this about campusing? Were there girls around or something? Sweet heel hook and sweet jugs. The overlaps above are also very enjoyable.
christopher brooke - 15/Aug/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 39
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