Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 108
10m. A mini-classic, intense and varied, packing a lot of climbing into a short distance. Gain the undercut flake with difficulty and follow it to its end where scary friction moves lead leftwards up a ramp to easy ground. Best climbed when the boggy area below the route is in prime condition, making falling off even more undesirable than normal.
A friend of mine fell off this. His belayer (not me) got his hand sucked into the belay device. The skin between thumb and forefinger. He let out a terrific scream and had to yank his hand out leaving behind a big lump of flesh and skin. Spent the rest of the day with a plastic carrier bag over his hand as it was the only first aid we had.
A stunning route!!
A beautiful route. Recommended for anyone beginning a hard grit career. Solo it when the bog below is well formed, this will give you the confidence to go for it, you won't fall off, it's too sticky!
I'd give this one E4 - its quite necky and tricksome
i am glad u can get some friends in, cos i wouldnt have done it without. scary.
Great route although distinctly "stop/start" - I almost got benighted on the little foot ledge =). Seems right at the grade although not sure where the 6a bit is. And: Pebble move not just friction move, bomber wire as well as the cams.
i got 3 friends in the flake and as a 2nd thought put 1 below my feet.when a pebble pulled on the crux, so did the gear. i hit the ground on the stretch of the afterthought.2 other rats have done the same.that flake bends me hearties
Very enjoyable route, faith in your feet pays divedens.
Stunning. Easily one of the best routes I have done on grit.
Scary onsight, especially when lack of chalk, lots of nervous sweating and gusts of wind endeavour to drag you off the tenuous smears! Awesome route, worth every star.
fantatsic, my first E3, found the top out quite scary