Crescent Arete Top 50

3 Stars
Fluttery
 V2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Double Act < Ron's Slab II  |  Crescent Slab > Crescent Wall >>


The superb elegant arete succumbs to precarious laybacking then a sprint once it begins to ease. On it's right-hand side it is a scary V4.
FA. Gabe Reagan 1976

USER COMMENTS

Quite bold. My mate fell off the bottom and hurt his ankle. So don't do that.
RobS - 30/Jun/02

A bit high for a boulder problem.
Dave Slater - 29/Aug/02

HVS 5b. Deserves a proper grade given its height. My advice is to try jumping off from half height a few times to get your confidence up!
Chris Moor - 14/Nov/02

Onsighted it and shook for an hour after...
felt awful nearly all the way and i'm very glad it's now ticked and I don't hve to do it again!
Squidders - 22/Dec/02

Fantastic, worth a mention in PGE, but how anyone wants to give it an adjective grade i have no idea. Its not very high, and once you are at the break, it is all over.
ap - 20/Feb/03

Cos its quite easy to break your back and legs falling off.
Dave - 21/Feb/03

My first ever route on Grit - or in England for that matter! Beautiful climbing, not hard but a good intro to Stanage aretes
Dave - 19/Mar/03

My first ever route on Grit - or in England for that matter! Beautiful climbing, not hard but a good intro to Stanage aretes
Dave - 19/Mar/03

one of my favourite routes. only a boulder problem if done with mats. quite easy really- only 1 hard move,
jus - 31/Mar/03

Very lovely, definitely not a boulder problem, defintely harder and scarier than some e1s and 2s. nearly fluffed it with my foot in the pocket and was shaking once i got over the top :o)
Jon Greengrass - 17/Jun/03

Very intimidating as crux sequnce begins above halfway. but only reasonably difficult once you get over commiting to it.
Joe Mansfield - 26/Oct/03

Simple: E1 5b to onsight solo. V/B-something-or-other to boulder out above mats or spotters. Your choice really. Tricky and classic either way (having done the former I will happily stick to the latter). It's worth noting the other side of the arete (E2 6a or V4 / B5) is also great and involves some beautiful gritstone movement.
Fiend - 09/Feb/04

Does that mean i have another e grade tick? Don't think so. I'd actually give it a 5C grade. Much harder than the crux of any E1 I've done (but not as hard as Orpheus Wall@ Birchen!)
Roberto - 15/Mar/04

Who cares wot the grade is.... all i can say is its a magnificent route/problem....
the friction has to be good and you have to be able to trust your feet... my 2 mates couldnt do it because they didnt trust the friction...
I think every one jus breathes out with such a releif after topping out tho...
GREAT STUFF
crazy diamond - 14/Apr/04

What a boulder problem!!! Its a perfect line and breathtaking to climb (whether thats to do with the adrenaline from the height or the wonder of the moves) - an absolute MUST.
Rob Greenwood - 23/Nov/04

This is a great Prob!!!
and yes it is a Problem not a route!!
so get over yourselves!!!!!!

don't sprint just float up it and enjoy!!

in reply to Roberto:

Dyno Orpheus wall and it is much easier!!!!

scottish
Scottish - 05/Aug/05

Harder and more serious than Argus (E2 5b). What about the right hand side of the arete - a bit harder and safer and just as good
andyclifford - 23/Sep/05

Just walk up to it and do it - don't psyche yourself out standing at the bottom! 5b problem and most definately not a route!!
oliver aram - 11/Oct/05

Not too fluttery....o/s'd it after a mate fell off at the pocket so i was glad to keep it together....spot on for 5b....not sure if it warrants an adjectival grade.
Morgan Woods - 29/Nov/06

Just done this in the drizzle with 3 mats and two spotters. Done this way it is def just a highball 5b. Fell off first go when taking my hand out of pocket, 2nd time got it in the bag. Lovely problem. It now gets 5c in new stanage guide ,altho 5b seems rite to me.
Adam Moroz - 28/Jun/07

I used to lap this route years ago every time I went to Stanage before a big fall on a well known arete route. I did for the first time since then (4 years) yesterday and it blew dem cobwebs out. Felt wonderful.
Jus - 23/Sep/07

Bad landing, but not really a highball as its easy climbing once your left foot is in the pocket. No need for a routegrade as this is a boulder - but they are good for comparing with the more serious aretes/routes above. Would only be 5a/5b in Font.
harald swen - 16/Jun/08

to be honest yes it is a highball problem but there is only one harder move in it the rest is pretty steady. Did this problem first go at the age of 15. Mint problem
little tom - 09/Aug/08

I don't really boulder, but I've been doing routes for donkeys and it didn't feel like a route. Did this after being egged on by mates, we didn't have a mat, but it looked like it eased off higher up - which it did. Silence the voices and keep going.
Jon Leighton - 13/Aug/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 61
    hard V3 6A 0 of 30
    V3 6A 0 of 30
    easy V3 6A 0 of 30
    hard V2 5c 18 of 30
    V2 5c 5 of 30
    easy V2 5c 2 of 30
    hard V1 5b 5 of 30
    V1 5b 0 of 30
    easy V1 5b 0 of 30
    hard 5c 0 of 0
    5c 0 of 0
    easy 5c 0 of 0
    hard 5b 0 of 0
    5b 0 of 0
    easy 5b 0 of 0
    hard 5a 0 of 0
    5a 0 of 0
    easy 5a 0 of 0
    3 Stars 30 of 31
    2 Stars 1 of 31
    1 Star 0 of 31
    0 Stars 0 of 31
    Bag of ..... 0 of 31

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