Bengal Buttress

2 Stars
Fluttery
 HVS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Graffiti < Dorothy's Dilemma  |  Schoolies > Crack of Gloom >>


28m. Climb the left arete of the buttress past holes to a ledge then trend right via a grassy ledge to the right-hand arete. Up this delicately (poor protection) then step left to finish up a short flake crack. Mild at the grade but with a serious crucial section that requires a careful approach.
FA. Ivan Waller 1930

USER COMMENTS

noticed the FA 1930, Waller had guts, no runners at all. I have turned back off it thinking it unjustifiable.
sutty - 20/Feb/02

I TAKE MY CAP OF TO WALLER.
WHAT A PIECE OF BOLD CLIMBING.CLEAN YOUR BOOTS FOR THIS ONE.
ANDREW MACKINTOSH - 02/Mar/02

Ok but serious especially as the last move is the crux and the only obvious runner is so far behind you, you would hit the deck, however if you are good with gear you can protect it.
Al Evans - 17/Jun/02

I climbed this with Al and he did it with a cool head, very modest about the gear it was unusual and quite ingenious! Considering how green it was, we wondered if it had been climbed since 1930?
Jon Greengrass - 17/Jun/02

Yes, I take my cap off to Waller too! I was lead up this recently by Steve Dean in quite green damp conditions, and was rather happy to be seconding. We were both rather amazed just what a serious/scary undertaking this is (cn Valkyrie, which merely feels scary!) I think youve got to be v clever to protect it adequately and the hard moves (actually 2 cruxes) are both at least 4c ... But it's a brilliant, big atmospheric, committing route.
Gordon Stainforth - 09/Jan/03

OK I soloed this and didn't look around for the gear, but it felt very easy for the grade.
Chris the Tall - 03/Oct/03

Was I on a different route? The pro seemed good to me at every hard move except leaving the midway ledge (where it was adequate). The crux was the final hard 4c smears before easier climbing, which would be incredibly serious and much harder for short climbers who cant reach the easier holds or the nut placements. (I'm 5'10' BTW)
Steve Clark - 07/Nov/03

I agree. Theres a good piece to protect the crux if you reach up. Good effort without sticky rubber!
Smelly Fox - 10/Feb/05

Very green at this time of year, all the moves are fairly straightforward except for the crux which felt a little off balance (I'm 5'9 so to paraphrase - "I couldn't reach the holds so I had to use skill". Nice route though.
Andrew Barker - 20/Feb/06

The crux was definitely leaving the ledge for me, which had a reasonable-ish cam and a poor nut t oprotect it, probably ok overall. The smear up was ok, I dont think it was height dependent since my taller mate seemed ot find it harder than me (hes better than me and was seconding) plus I certainly didnt place any gear before doing the move - where is it? There is a good flat top to hold on to and a big foothold to aim for to step up on. Didnt think this was avery good rotue anyway - 1 star soft touch HVS. DD is absolutely miles better (and miles harder!)
Si dH - 05/Feb/07

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 51
    hard E1 0 of 16
    E1 0 of 16
    easy E1 0 of 16
    hard HVS 1 of 16
    HVS 7 of 16
    easy HVS 7 of 16
    hard VS 1 of 16
    VS 0 of 16
    easy VS 0 of 16
    hard 5a 0 of 18
    5a 0 of 18
    easy 5a 0 of 18
    hard 4c 2 of 18
    4c 14 of 18
    easy 4c 2 of 18
    hard 4b 0 of 18
    4b 0 of 18
    easy 4b 0 of 18
    3 Stars 0 of 17
    2 Stars 12 of 17
    1 Star 5 of 17
    0 Stars 0 of 17
    Bag of ..... 0 of 17

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.