Crack of Gloom

2 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Bengal Buttress < Schoolies  |  Raven Rock Gully Left-hand > Raven Rock Gully >>

20m. The ever-leaning crack in the left-hand side of the gully would be a mega-classic in a more open setting. Here it is well-named, moody and magnificent. Jam the never-ending series of overhangs to the great boulder blocking the rift then make a tricky traverse left to a difficult exit where big fists sure help.
FA. Joe Brown 1958


i thought I saw the FA of this route, It may have been Brown repeating it but morty definitely followed brown up it, in the dark cursing that he couldn't see any holds. All the Rock and ice were there, a good bouldering session was held with Roscoe and big Ally Taylor doing the most..Audrey whillans will have dons records of if he did it.
sutty, - 20/Feb/02

A great gritstone crack. Do it early in the season for maximum ambiance (i.e. when it's still dirty, a bit masochist but the jams are wonderful, take a sport climber to second it!!.
Mike Raine - 07/Mar/02

As the yanks would say 'this is so E2' and it's 5c. Truly a great climb. The situation does not detract, if anything it adds to the attraction ***
Ian Jones - 25/Jul/05

There was a grim, dark, dreek place; and there lived fierceness and brutalization. Utterly bloody brilliant though. Tetanus shots advised.
PatEase - 01/Aug/05

One of my favourites. Absolutely brilliant, despite its dirt and gloom. Lots of character!
Tom - 09/Sep/07

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