Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 149
32m. A long and wandering trip up the huge buttress. Start below a battered holly and climb very slippery rock (crux) to the roof. Escape out left passing the obstinate holly to ledges (possible stance) then climb to the huge roof. From the left edge of this climb up to runners then reach a flake on the wall of the gully, finish out right on the front of the buttress.
FORTUNATLY THE GREEN ON THE ROCK DOSNT SPOIL THIS CLIMB. BETS DONE IN 2 PITCHES TAKING THE BELAY IN THE GULLY. THE ROUTE SHOULD BE 4C ON THE FIRST FEW MOVES AS THIS IS GETTING VERY POLISHED.
And it's even more fun/desperate in the rain...Oh those bygone years at Keele Uni, where all we could think about was hitching/bussing out to the Roaches and scaring ourselves s**tless.
fortunately the lichen doesn't grow on the polish...
This is an excellent route and friendly at the grade. The holds are shiny but not slippery (when dry). We took 3 pitches and each one was excellent. ONe of the best VSs I've ever done
Wonderful.Done when everything horizontal was snow on ice on rock. Unintentional variant middle pitch cross from the twin cracks above the ledge to gain the second belay ledge, exciting span! 3rd pitch a sublime meander. Run out, rope drag and a flop into an icy puddle (all avoidable by those with an ounce of sense).
interesting if done in one long pitch!
Excellent stuff, helps if you know excactly were your heading on the start of the second pitch.