Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 14
The right-hand arete can be followed throughout. It is too close to Himmelswillen in its central section (runners but no holds allowed) but features good climbing with a worrying finale. High in the grade.
Pretty worrying in its upper half, this route felt quite a bit harder than Great Buttress Arete. Excellent moves though - deserves at good 2 stars.
Thats a bit of an understatement Nick! On the upper section this must use holds on Himmelswillen and the arete to be anything like E1.
Changed my mind a bit having tried it again at the weekend. It has a trick move if you avoid holds in Himmelswillen but is probably only E2 5b ish with no gear in Himmelswillen. Using gear, holds or both in Himmelswillen might make it E1. I think its still harder than GBA whatever way you do it and that top section would be pretty serious if you tried to rush up it when pumping out.
Not a great route although the safe, steep upper part is fun. Cruxes are placing good but fiddly gear lower down, and avoiding Himmelswillen.
I'd agree, when I first failed it I thought E2 5c at least.