Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 397
A wandering climb of great quality - the archetypical 'must-do'!
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A LONG TIREING ROUTE. PUT THE RIGHT HAND ROPE ON THE TIP OF THE FLAKE FOR BETTER ROPE WORK.
Classic! One of the most 'thought provoking' routes on grit. Never very difficult, but you really have to think.
Not a HVS, but one of the most stimulating VS's in the Peak (... in the world). Love that step out from the huge flake. Hey - does it count as HVS if the top section is under snow?
The VS stands for very scary.
Alan - please don't mention the hidden foothold in the description - it spoils the suprise. one of my favourite routes regardless of grade.
We did this route without seeing anyone else on it and with no knowledge of the hidden foothold and it did feel more like HVS.
The climbing is VS. The intimidating position is HVS.
Did this in the rain too. Even scarier than very scary. 15 years on I think I'd only do it in the dry now, but it's certainly worth it.
The afore mentioned hidden foothold isn't there any more, possibly the reason for the upgrade? Or perhaps it's just for the pant filling experience!
The hidden foot hold is there I was watching some one find it and shout over to his mate. Not telling you where it is... Apparently it looks chipped but roaches is softer rock so it could be wear. When I climbed it I didn't find it. Prolly made it more like 5a...
Top pitch wonderful. Has maybe got a shade harder with wear (but still only 4c) - yes, feels v scary, but really, how many routes are this well protected, with a runner way above you to one side, so that all that's going to happen is you're going to take a big swing without falling anywhere?
If you think Valkyrie is scary, try doing the flake facing outwards, looks good from below but my son, Mikes, doesn't want to do it like that again!
hidden foothold definitely there...really wish it wasn't in the description...kind of spoils the route a little bit.
Pretty steady VS as long as you keep the ropes tidy. I can also confirm the presence of the "hidden" foothold, but it still took me ages to find it.
VS, absolutly no harder worth 3.5 stars and best enjoyed on a hot sunny day - get on it!
p.s. Anybody who thinks it's harder should do Old Faithful at Swanage!
Didn't find any hidden foot holds so had to use a not quite so hidden smear which made it feel more like 5a. But point taken stuntman nowhere near as hard as Swanage's Baboon!
Bottom pitch is getting increasingly ugly due to lots of wear from top-roping groups with muddy trainers... Still worth doing the route just for the 2nd pitch of course!
There's no doubt that this is an easy VS to lead. However, got to be HVS for the second!
Got lost in the middle of the second pitch - is it straight up the jamming crack (as per the rockfax photo), or the (much easier) escape onto the nose as shown in OPR? Lost a lot of skin on route 1!!! Great route though
I thought the first pitch was the harder by far.
hidden foot hold?its a obvious as the nose on your face.never hvs its not hard or scarey enough,& thats soloing.an ejoyable climb,3 *'s
First pitch is harder than 4b.
Whoever thinks this is harder than a VS 4c obviously doesnt climb many places other than on grit. I dont climb much harder than VS but still found this a soft touch. You dont even need this so called hidden foothold, just jam yer' leg in the crack!
I found the first pitch was technically much harder than the second (probably top end 4c), the second pitch mentally harder. The hidden foothold is only hidden if you don't look at the route from the ground, where it's obvious. But I thought the foothold made the route harder, I could only make the step across by not using it.
...and the route is only HVS for the second if the leader makes a mess of the rope work. Or if he starts the route late and faffs for so long on the crux that the second has to climb it in the dark (sorry Carmen).
The second would experience a longer fall than the leader due to down climbing, not bad rope work. The hidden foothold makes the so-called crux very easy.
Using double ropes the second will have a rope directly above them for the whole of the down-climb and traverse, so will not fall any distance at all. If you only have a single rope, pull it through and lower it back to the second, so the same applies. Anything which could give the second any significant fall is poor rope work.
Agreed. Unless, of course, the entire pitch is a traverse with poor protection (not applicable to Valkyrie).
The best vs 4c for skill and puzzle solving and requires good communication(Screaming) between lead and second. I found the face on the second pitch around the corner after the 'step' very intimidating, one dodgy friend and a 'dive board' edge to contemplate as you scrape your way up! The second pitch is too scary to second!
Had to solo out past the flake to get my prescious no.4 cam back after my second bottled and scuttled through the exit hole at the top of the 1st pitch. All good banter though, i was shaking like a shitting dog. The boys well up for it now though, he doesn't like failure
this is an amazing, epic climb. it's probably the most memorable climb i've had. i found the crux to be moving from the flake on to the main face.
i just think that this is one of the most overrated climb on grit - sorry!
3 Stars. Excellent value.
If you aint done it....go do it! I'd agree that the first pitch is harder, especially in slimy November conditions! The positions on the flake and crossing the edge after it above the 'abyss' are fantastic.
nice route. Found the first pitch hard on the second and the top pitch thrilling to lead! ropework went to hell but still caught my buddy when he muffed the step off the flake! ***defo!
Exhilarating position. Nice route, feels good to be on the front face at the end.
Very good but I didnt think as brilliant as its hyped up to be. The first pitc his pretty nastily polished.
Absolutely loved this route. Been building up to it for a while and definitely didn't find it the most challenging VS I've done - but definitely the most fun.
I found the hidden foothold, and still thought this route was tough for a vs, then again it was my first trad lead, brilliant though,
THe best VS on grit, HVS position but 4c with good gear. I overdid the looking for the hidden hold the first time & ended up with feet dangling below the roof. If you cant find it just jam a foot in & stretch left. The 1st pitch is now technically harder because of the polish
>>>A wandering climb of great quality - the archetypical 'must-do'!<<<
Valkyrie has somewhat more to it than Chequers Buttress! Contrived in what way - cunning perhaps - like Vector - it finds a way onto the front of the buttress at a reasonable grade. CB is too short to get 3 stars imo.
Anyone who thinks this route is rubbish shld probably stop climbing!
I led the first pitch, didn't find it as polished as I anticipated, certainy not slippy (or maybe I'm just getting used to it). I'm not convinced about this hidden foothold. Either a) it's at the bottom of the flake, or b) it's on the left. If it's a), my leader climbed down too it, found it, and decided it was easier to climb back up a step and just step left - I did the same, with right foot on a notch on the edge of the flake. b) it it's on the left, it's not hidden. The hidden undercut to aid the step across is far more hidden! Or maybe I shouldn't have said that ;) Regardless, I enjoyed the route. We hadn't planned to do it, I once wanted to but went off the idea with it being so popular. But it was a special occasion and quiet at the crag, so we just found ourselves on it which turned out to be the perfect choice and we had a great evening. Kudos to the party of 3 who did it in the dark with headtorches after us, one of whom had just led his first route that evening!!
p.s. Apparently you can foot traverse the ledge at the top of the first pitch with hands on jugs on the wall above. Without realising that I hand traversed it (where it's more slabby but with poor hand holds), which looks a little interesting and dubious but it actually ok :S
My mate led the first pitch and I led the second, after which he fell on the crux!
No way the first pitch is worth HS 4b anymore. Second pitch is more scary but no harder technically.
hardest way is to lead 1st pitch and 2nd the crux pitch , but alot more enjoyable the other way round. better still be selfish and lead both pitches . first now 4c , second pitch still 4c . Brill climb one that makes you love climbing
After years of climbing I finally got to do Valkyrie as there was no queue, though it had just stopped raining.