Pebbledash

2 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Licence to Lust < Eugene's Axe  |  Secrets of Dance > Against the Grain >>


1) 5a, 10m. Head up the groove to steep rock then pad left at the limit of HVS friction and move left to a stance in the corner. 2) 4b, 8m. Finish up the main groove or the flake to its left.
FA. Dave Salt 1969

USER COMMENTS

This one got the better of me first time round and I wanged off on the move out of the bottom groove. Nice fall to the ground, only cut short by my trusty and well placed 7 nut high up in the groove. Good job my second was awake or else it was curtains. Still got the scars of the rope as it cut through the back of my hand. 2nd time up, was a bit more careful. Nice route, but not for the lighthearted (and I measure my words).
wurzel - 26/Jun/02

A game of two halfs as they say, initial crack is well protected, it does get stiffer the higher up you go. Then comes the sting,letting go of the jug to pad out onto the hold less smeary slab ....focus's the mind well
Shaun Walby - 15/May/05

I really, really enjoyed this climb. It has something for everyone - jams, smears, bridges...
Richard - 30/Aug/05

Can anyone recommend some cheap but effective spraying equipment to paint over pebbledash?

hey that got you! just joking.
Gollyponda - 02/Sep/05

Great route! relatively easy up the initial crack getting harder at the top, then all to soon it runs out and you realise you've got to smear out into thin air!!! Stuff as many nuts in for safety of mind and have faith.
Dan Parker - 19/Jun/06

Nice route, has a bit of everything, low in the grade though. Much easier than some of the upper tier HVS's. It's much better than it looks.
Andrew Bramall - 12/Sep/06

It's a nice route but low in the grade. the friction traverse has some lovely foothold scoops. It is a full-on HVS move if you've used all you small rocks though! I didn't have any small enough to fit the left thread to protect the finish of the traverse :D good swing potental
AlanM - 13/Nov/06

Thought this was good but didnt think it was anywheer near the limit if HVS friction. It was, however, right at the limit of HVS balance and foot-reach, and it was quite precarious and a bit blind. Good route.

Has anyone climbed the flake on the left at teh top? I was going to but it craked ominously so I chickened out...
Si dH - 05/Feb/07

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 69
    hard E1 0 of 26
    E1 0 of 26
    easy E1 0 of 26
    hard HVS 1 of 26
    HVS 15 of 26
    easy HVS 9 of 26
    hard VS 1 of 26
    VS 0 of 26
    easy VS 0 of 26
    hard 5b 0 of 25
    5b 0 of 25
    easy 5b 0 of 25
    hard 5a 1 of 25
    5a 18 of 25
    easy 5a 5 of 25
    hard 4c 1 of 25
    4c 0 of 25
    easy 4c 0 of 25
    3 Stars 0 of 18
    2 Stars 15 of 18
    1 Star 3 of 18
    0 Stars 0 of 18
    Bag of ..... 0 of 18

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.