The Swan

3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Thing on a Spring < Up the Swanee  |  Swan Bank > The Mincer >>


26m. An elegant pitch requiring commitment on the traverse. Climb thin cracks to where they fade, place a high runner, then tiptoe round the bulge and traverse right until a stiff pull is needed to reach the continuation crack. A runner on the tree to the right can be used to shorten the pendulum if you muff the crux. Swing right and finish up the excellent jamming crack. Up the Swanee, E4 5c. As for The Swan but make the traverse with your feet in the break instead of your hands. Twice as gripping as The Swan and especially so for the tall.
FA. John Gosling (why didn't he call it The Goose?) one peg 1969 FFA. Ron Fawcett 1977. FA. Up the Swanee John Yates 1970

USER COMMENTS

On the FA John did not want to use a peg but it was too dangerous without till small nuts came out. Try it without modern pro to see his dilemma.
sutty - 20/Feb/02

Difficult move around the bulge but toproped and obviously safe. Difficult move to the rounded break where I couldn't get a runner. Smeared rightwards and managed to runner the bottom of the wide crack. Gripping but ace!
FedUp - 19/Sep/03

found this to be aharder than i expected, being short i found the first few moves of the traverse a bit awkward but didnt find the rock over too bad. however once you get your hands in the horizontal break it still isnt over as it is very rounded. very gripping
free_doherty - 23/Apr/05

An exciting voyage along an interesting line of weakness. The fingerholds are joyous, and both cruxes are most satisfying - though be warned, at the time of writing the base of the final crack is pretty green and dank, and it would be frightening scrabble in damp conditions.
Fiend - 15/Jan/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 45
    hard E4 0 of 15
    E4 0 of 15
    easy E4 0 of 15
    hard E3 5 of 15
    E3 10 of 15
    easy E3 0 of 15
    hard E2 0 of 15
    E2 0 of 15
    easy E2 0 of 15
    hard 6a 0 of 15
    6a 0 of 15
    easy 6a 0 of 15
    hard 5c 3 of 15
    5c 11 of 15
    easy 5c 1 of 15
    hard 5b 0 of 15
    5b 0 of 15
    easy 5b 0 of 15
    3 Stars 15 of 15
    2 Stars 0 of 15
    1 Star 0 of 15
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