Pincer

1 Stars
Technical
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< The Mincer < Smear Test  |  Kicking Bird > Bloodstone >>


20m. Climb the short steep wall (bouldery crux) to a rest below the bulges then move rightwards to the shrubby gully. Up this to a traverse out left leading to a short finger and hand crack. Sadly, after the start, the route is only about Severe.

USER COMMENTS

No quibble with VS for this route...but that first move is 5a and hard for 5a, particularly if you don't use a cheating stone to step off.
Al.Smith - 02/Mar/02

I agree with Al. Though 5b difficulty on the start and it helps if you're tall. In my guide this is a HVS dammit.
Albie Niedojadlo - 05/Mar/02

Agree with all of the above! The Staffs Grit guide has this as HVS 5a. The start is definately 5a, even if the rest is easy!
Phil Marren - 06/Mar/02

If the bouldery move is 5a then the climb should be graded 5a.

Safe 5a by the ground or by a good runner is VS. How can you describe a route as 5a and then grade it VS 4c?
jonathan prager - 09/Mar/02

This has to be VS 5a. Totally agree with Jonathan Prager. It sure as hell isnt 4c, the first bit!
mozzer - 14/Mar/02

Bottom end VS; certain 5a if not high in the grade. HS once past the tricky start.
Steve C - 10/Apr/02

I'd say VS 5b in the northumbrian sense of the grade
hoseyb - 12/Jun/02

I fell of the start and was glad there was a bouldering mat! Many might not have one. HVS 5b sounds more like it for a pure matless ascent. The rest of the route is straightforward and of a an entirely different character.
Jon Greengrass - 17/Jun/02

First 15 feet has several 5a/5b moves, but the good gear & easy final section make a good VS
Rosemary Yates - 20/Oct/02

I agree with Rosemary. I thought there were a couple of difficult moves at the start. First getting off the ground and then getting establied on the low ledge. Felt like HVS 5a to me, though the rest is quite easy.
Paul Boardman - 07/Nov/02

All these comments saying, rightly, that it's 5a/b for first 15 feet, and you're still calling it 4c! What's going on? It was definitely historically undergraded, because it was put up to HVS at one point. I think now it is VS 5a, (at least.)
Gordon Stainforth - 09/Jan/03

I'd say 5a to get hands on the low ledge then maybe 5b (at least hard 5a) to get stood on top of it. This bit would stop a lot of leaders working up through the VS's so the grade should be easy HVS I think,
r0b - 26/Apr/03

HVS 5b. VS 5b if you can reach high enough to place a runner before starting. Think about doing the starting moves high on a route and it's obviously 5b and not 5a IMO.
FedUp - 19/Sep/03

Ive heard of grade drift but this is ridiculous. In 1970 this was a classic "sandbagging" Hard Severe route. There was a pinch hold under the roof at the start which allowed you to pull up and to the left. Miss this hold and I agree it would be difficult. I wonder if it has "fallen off" or are people still missing it.
Colin Hopkins - 22/Jan/05

Getting off the floor and established on the lip is a tad tricky. The route as a whole is well worth getting your head around the start. Great route.
Shaun Walby - 15/May/05

A suprisingly tricky start,once in the groove theres a nice step round the bulge with your left hand on a crimpy edge, then into a low crack that rises diagonaly up the wall into a disapointing gully (that ruins the route)
Basicly its all over once youve stepped round the bulge!
Souljah - 13/Sep/05

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 121
    hard HVS 0 of 57
    HVS 0 of 57
    easy HVS 12 of 57
    hard VS 27 of 57
    VS 14 of 57
    easy VS 2 of 57
    hard HS 2 of 57
    HS 0 of 57
    easy HS 0 of 57
    hard 5b 0 of 21
    5b 0 of 21
    easy 5b 5 of 21
    hard 5a 10 of 21
    5a 3 of 21
    easy 5a 1 of 21
    hard 4c 2 of 21
    4c 0 of 21
    easy 4c 0 of 21
    3 Stars 0 of 43
    2 Stars 9 of 43
    1 Star 33 of 43
    0 Stars 1 of 43
    Bag of ..... 0 of 43

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