Elegy Top 50

3 Stars
Fluttery
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Mousey's Mistake < A Little Peculiar  |  Clive Coolhead > The Bulger >>


16m. Perhaps the best slab route in Western Grit! Climb the awkward overhanging corner to the base of the upper crack and large cams. Balance left to the tantalising flake and if you are completely baffled, try a bit of lateral thinking. Follow the creaky flake to its end (slightly dubious runners) then weave a way up the final bald slab connecting a set of small 'blisters' by brilliantly intense climbing. Photo page 21.
FA. Mike Simpkins (tension to start) 1960. FFA. John Yates 1969

USER COMMENTS

the bulge is the crux and the slab is quite easy
mark s - 20/Feb/02

Surely we don't need so much beta for the technical crux?
Horse - 23/Feb/02

Is the crux not the VS crack !?

And I aggree with Horse, working out that move is without a doubt one of the things that makes it such a memorable route, can't think of many other moves quite like it.
Chris C - 04/Mar/02

A route that emitomises why gritstone was made for climbing, wonderful.
Mike from Frome - 07/Mar/02

I cant believe these comments, theres this one desperate ungradeable move on a great E2 5c, but its 6a and if you dont stuff a super big friend in the crack on the right its probably E4 certainly E3.
Al Evans - 17/Jun/02

Having Toproped it on Sunday, I agree with Al, If that move is 5c then Chalkstorm is "only" 5a!!. Maybe if you could get a huge friend above your head before you step of the ledge on the right maybe it is E2?
Jon Greengrass - 17/Jun/02

Never more than E2 - The crux is (weird) 5c and close to the pro - can't remember what it was but I don't own any big friends, and it wasn't miles up the crack. The rest is 5b, so E2 5b is expected to be bold, especially on grit! - As for chalkstorm only 5a, there are different types of climbing, its not powerfull or weird but balancey and delicate!
Davey - 21/Jun/02

yeah, please sack your "how to do elegy" hint. if you can work out how to do that bit on your own, you can piss up the rest! and anyway, there's more than one way to skin a cat, apparently.
martin k - 27/Oct/02

Agree that any beta should be omitted - one of the great things with Elegy is working out how to do THAT move. You get get a F4 above your head without climbing up the VS. Top slab is no gift, but the gear is pretty good - agree with Davey's comment there.
Simon - 18/Dec/02

That crux must be super-weird 5c, because a whole lot of us tried it when there was a top rope down it, and I dont think anyone managed it! And then i could most definitely climb gritstone 5c on a top rope (or so I thought!). Obviously there's a bit of trick here to put it mildly. It's just so totally unobvious. But this, surely, is an example of gritstone at it's v best.
Gordon Stainforth - 09/Jan/03

Aye - drop the beta on elegy!!!!
Richard Jewell - 13/Feb/03

Def drop the beta - this is a fantastic route and the VS crack at the bottom is the hardest bit! The step left is just confidence and working it out.
Ruth - 21/Feb/03

Climbed this the other day, never climbed 5c on grit before and didn't find it hard. bomber gear protects The Move, just check out the photo to see!
pete h - 07/Apr/03

Mike Simpkins had a huge smile on his face after leading this route, no protection on the top slab
sutty - 30/Apr/03

Did this again on Sunday. I think it is worth E3 now. I was very worried about putting friends behind the flake for the the top slabby section which I don't think is straight forward at all. As for the move left, it is 5c but not obvious.
Mike Raine - 15/Sep/03

The move left is not that hard once you work out how to do it, but it seems like a lot of people never work it out. I have on a couple of occasions helped people out by giving the beta (after asking if they wanted it) when they've been in-situ for some time. Incidentally I still reckon it's worth E2 even with a runner high in Bulger - look at the photo and work out where you'd finish coming off the last slab move - only just above the o'hang.
Mike Hood - 17/Feb/04

Almost worth E3 for that last move on the slab - thank god i moved away from Grit!!!!!!
mark s davies - 17/Feb/04

WOW! This is the best slab i've ever climbed. Found the VS crack really awkward though, almost as bad as The Move across! The top 2 metres or so of the slab were "intense", to quote the guidebook; nasty fall potential as well, expect to lose most of your shoes and skin. I'd give it (easy?) E3; it's definitely harder than Chalkstorm (which should only be E2).
Sean_J - 15/Apr/05

my friend fell off the very top move today. he grabbed the top, let out and exclamation of happiness and his foot popped. I was beleying and he ended just above the overhang... i had to run back though.
free_doherty - 23/Apr/05

Geezus!

The BMC guide suggests placing high gear - I didn't (bomber placement straight in front of you for the crux), hence that gear only protected that move. I then proceeded to get so gripping two moves above the end of the flake, I needed rescuing! With higher gear in the Bulger, I would say this is a stiff E2, without it's terrifying!

The rule for both the Bulger section and the crux (easy 5c) is simply to keep your body as far out from the rock as you can get!

Chalkstorm (on-sighted) didn't feel this bad!
Pythonist - 19/Jun/06

Don't care what anyone say's this is harder than chalkstorm. About 2/3 of the way up the upper slab was the crux for me, a tricky little move with the exposure makes it quite intense. The bulge didn't feel possible till I did it then seemed quite easy. Must do route
Andrew Bramall - 12/Sep/06

fell off this today, it was quite green and my foot just popped off one of the smears above the flake, ended up below the overhang. I reckon i could have done it if it wasnt so green so i'll try again next year. Found the bulge easy, just take a minute to work it out and then go for it. Definat;y harder than chalkstorm!
wig - 29/Nov/06

I daftly had a bash at this in the 30 degree heat summer last year. Big mistake! The step accross took a while to work out what to do, and really sets you up for what's coming. I got stranded very near the top when misread the slab, and with aching sweaty & numb feet I called for a top rope!
Jus - 03/Dec/06

I'd suggest getting someone to brush the top break before going for an onsight. The last move on the slab it a bit intense on lead and it doesn't help if the top-out is covered in scrittle, grass, heather, mud and other assorted detritus. Breathtaking lead though. Probably the best route I've done on grit.
alexzander89 - 23/Sep/10

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  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 200
    hard E3 0 of 69
    E3 0 of 69
    easy E3 9 of 69
    hard E2 20 of 69
    E2 39 of 69
    easy E2 1 of 69
    hard E1 0 of 69
    E1 0 of 69
    easy E1 0 of 69
    hard 6a 0 of 69
    6a 0 of 69
    easy 6a 2 of 69
    hard 5c 13 of 69
    5c 46 of 69
    easy 5c 8 of 69
    hard 5b 0 of 69
    5b 0 of 69
    easy 5b 0 of 69
    3 Stars 61 of 62
    2 Stars 1 of 62
    1 Star 0 of 62
    0 Stars 0 of 62
    Bag of ..... 0 of 62

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