Hunky Dory

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 E3 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Choka < Circuit Breaker  |  Prow Corner > Micro-Storm >>


10m. The thin twisting cracks in the side-wall give a technical and sustained pitch to a good rest which gives you time to psych up for the tricky mantelshelf finale.
FA. Gabe Regan 1975

USER COMMENTS

did this tonight,quite pumpy and tricky,also wet at the bottom of the crack,more like e3/4 6a
mark s - 27/Mar/02

finishing straight up from the ledge felt hard and bold. Has anyone actually done this by stepping left and mantling the bulge to finish? I wouldn't call it sustained either, as there's enough of a rest on the ledge to stand around and get really scared.
TimB - 17/Apr/02

I toproped this and found the flakey cracks, brilliantly engrossing and sustained. but you get a no hands rest on the ledge. I tried finishing direct up from here (good nut at the top of the crack?) but the holds are tiny and the footwork very delicate. Stepping left and mantling was much easier just a bit commiting.
Jon Greengrass - 17/Jun/02

How can you make any comment about how you may feel about it on an onsight lead?
stuart - 28/Jan/03

No mention of the direct finish left from the top of the crack by a hard (6b?) slopey finish
Richard Jewell - 13/Feb/03

I failed to lead this on Sunday principally by trying to go left at the top of the crack. I top rope seconded it and went straight up, very annoying! But it is brilliant, I feel it's worth E4.
Mike Raine - 15/Sep/03

Faffed around on this quite a bit before commiting as it is not immediately clear where to go. Standing immediately to the right of the crack and going direct then rocking back left was the way I went.
Simon Lee - 06/Mar/06

Where on earth does 6a come from? Steady crack with good gear and then an airy 5c rockover to finish after a hands-off rest. Bog standard E3 if you ask me.
Aly - 16/Sep/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 39
    hard E4 0 of 18
    E4 0 of 18
    easy E4 5 of 18
    hard E3 10 of 18
    E3 3 of 18
    easy E3 0 of 18
    hard E2 0 of 18
    E2 0 of 18
    easy E2 0 of 18
    hard 6b 0 of 11
    6b 0 of 11
    easy 6b 0 of 11
    hard 6a 0 of 11
    6a 8 of 11
    easy 6a 2 of 11
    hard 5c 1 of 11
    5c 0 of 11
    easy 5c 0 of 11
    3 Stars 9 of 10
    2 Stars 1 of 10
    1 Star 0 of 10
    0 Stars 0 of 10
    Bag of ..... 0 of 10

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