Commander Energy Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 136
Adjacent Routes
12m. The flying fin is approached up the bulging arete. Hand-traverse a flange out left then rock onto it and layback smartly, heart in mouth, up the impressive arete. Photo page 41. USER COMMENTS
fine laybacking in airy fairy conditions!
Definitely a 3 star route.
The only reason that I would say it isn't a thre star route is that the first half seem s quite contrived and when I did it i wasn't sure whether or not you could use the tempting diff crack for your left hand ( i was informed you couldn't).
I loved this route!!! Maybe the start is contrived but I don't care! Not sure how long the flake bit will last though!?
No left hand crack, link it to the undercut-sidepull in the roof, it seemed desperate to me but then it was warm, great finish in exposed position though
quite a difficult smeary move to get below trhe overhang. easy and awesome afterwards
In my view, this route is vastly overrated both in difficulty and quailty. The bottom is contrived and very close to other, easier routes, while the top is quite exciting but safe and closer to 5a if you can use your feet.
Firstly, this route is top class - I'm sure it was designed for climbing on. Secondly, it's harder than Chalkstorm, so the grade's spot on. Recommend this one for shorties. It's a lot harder for the short, but the hard moves improve in quality the more vertically challenged you are!
One of the Roaches best. Grade spot on. Bottom is difficult for shorties - top difficult for lankies... Colin Allott is 6Ft plus!( but was about 4ft 10ins when he first did it 10 years ago!)
The bottom might be a little bit contrived, but only a little bit and the moves up to the overhang are fantastic. from there on it's great too.I'd give this route 3 stars.
The thin move to get up to the roof probably the tech crux, although gaining the flake is awkward. Layback finish felt easier but much scarier. Good wires and sling on flake, not a good idea to test its integrity with cams.
A summary of the above seems to be right - E2 5c, with the crux at the top of the lower slab, and then a wondeful hand-traverse, rock-over, and layback. It just gets more exciting the higher you get!
freakin' sweet. Rocking up onto that flake feels sooooo awsome :D |